The rapid professional changes of weavers: The current condition of the handloom industry in Bangladesh.
The khadi industry is one of Bangladesh’s traditional industries. Khadi yarn and textiles were initially woven on handlooms in this country’s Comilla area. Khadi, created on a spinning wheel, is now uncommon in Comilla. However, with the passage of time, this business has been nearly eliminated; today, most of them have abandoned this vocation through generations, and many are employed in other fields. Khadi craftsmen’s lives, particularly their professional lives, are fraught with challenges and angst. The growth of the modern garment industry, as well as product substitution, have jeopardised their chances and jobs. Furthermore, despite receiving an education, freshmen exhibit little enthusiasm for pursuing this profession.
The Khadi business is on the verge of collapse due to a variety of factors, including rising material prices, issues with raw materials and transportation, the popularity of modern clothing, and the dominance of powerlooms. Because of these reasons, the owners of handmade khadi factories are gradually closing their doors.
At the start of the twentieth century, English mechanical mills in the subcontinent increased their cloth manufacturing. At the time, many people’s primary source of income was disappearing. During this period, Mahatma Gandhi advocated for the Swadeshi Movement. Khadi was a key tool of the Swadeshi Movement (1905–1911). The Swadeshi movement prompted the resurrection of Khadi artists and a newfound zeal in Khadi production. Instead of purchasing foreign products, people preferred to use domestic products. People began to place a higher value on their clothing. I started with Khadi cloth and wire.
Khadi artists concentrate on special events like Eid, when this khadi is in high demand. As a result, they borrow at higher interest rates from various bank societies or local usurious merchants to produce khadi cloth in response to rising demand. The labourer must pay a significant share of the money generated from selling the cloth. As a result, they cannot profitably sell the cloth they produce. Because of this, Khadi artisans are leaving their production system (the Khadi industry artisans) and pursuing new careers.
The issue of occupational status is prevalent in Bangladeshi society. Aside from doctors, engineers, teachers, and attorneys, other educated people hold important positions in Bangladesh. However, khadi artisans linked to this trade do not have a high level of professional recognition. They believe they must work as artisans since they do not know how to read and write, but when their children get educated, they are migrating away from this career with the goal of obtaining respect and pursuing more prestigious occupations. Nowadays, the changing socioeconomic situation, in keeping with the changing era, has a variety of effects on the Khadi artisans’ vocation.
The advent of new workplaces is one of the elements driving the shift in occupation for Khadi artisans. Khadi artists are leaving their conventional employment because new attractive jobs pay more than traditional khadi artisans.
Presently, Khadi Cottage, Purbasha Gift & Khadi, Khadi House, Khadi Arang, Grameen Khadi, etc. are notable among the Khadi product sales centres in Bangladesh. Speaking to Arun Guhar, the owner of Gramin Khadi, located in Chandina of Comilla district,
Even if this industry survives at present, there are considerable fears about its existence in the near future. He said that in order to sustain this industry in the future, everyone should buy at least one khadi or khaddar dress every year.
Writer
Md Hossain Rakib
